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The Homestead in Hot Springs Virginia may seem an unlikely ski
destination. The resort has traditionally been known for its challenging
golf and other, more esoteric diversions for the East Coast's moneyed
classes such as skeet and trap shooting, fly fishing, horseback riding,
and of course, its fabled natural hot springs.
Much however has changed since opening in 1766 when the Homestead catered exclusively to the upper crust, who routinely measured their vacations in this Allegheny Mountain backwater in weeks and even months. Under the ownership of Club Resorts, Inc for the five years, the expansive resort is undergoing a much needed multimillion dollar face lift and modernization in an effort to attract a new generation of visitors. And judging by the clutches of well-scrubbed families and young couples enjoying a Saturday afternoon tea in the Great Hall last winter, the strategy seems to be paying off. The Homestead pioneered southern skiing -- opening its first slopes in 1959 a short shuttle ride up the mountain from the hotel. There are nine groomed slopes, with adequate snowmaking should Mother Nature disappoint, served by a double chairlift. My younger daughter Morgan, aged 8, liked the T bar serving a beginner area.My son Joshua, aged 2, who was spending his last ski season riding in a child carrier on my back, also preferred the T bar ride up the mountain. The beginner area is a perfect location for first time skiers or already proficient beginners to practice their skills in a low key, non-threatening environment. The mountain -- it's actually a hill -- isn't big enough to attract busloads of skiers or swarms of teenage kamikazes, and it is well policed by local ski patrollers I didn't see much ski school instruction during our two day visit, but it is available for aspiring alpine skiers as well as snowboarders, who can make use of the dedicated snowboard park, including a half-pipe For skiers who are comfortable doing a strong snowplow, nothing on offer at the Homestead should prove too great a challenge. There are some relatively steep parts on the upper trails, but it is possible to avoid these by slipping off the chairlift at the halfway station -- an option most skiers seemed to be taking. My son Joshua preferred the faster downhill speeds gained on the upper part of the slopes. It did mean that I had to endure more of the easy listening music blaring from loudspeakers all along the chairlift route, but it was a small price to pay to enjoy Joshua enjoying himself as we sped downhill. Skiers would be advised to bring their own equipment or rent skis boots and poles and/ or a snowboard locally. It saves time and makes the transition from hotel room to skiing far less hectic. Nonskiers can see virtually the entire slope network from an elevated boardwalk at the bottom -- a plus for parents who want to keep an eye on their kids without actually skiing themselves. Mountain side facilities, including the ski lodge restaurant, are decidedly on the spartan side. Skiers are meant to have fun on the slopes and then to return to the hotel for lunch and relaxation. The slopes at the Homestead offer families interested in trying out the sport for the first time to sample the slopes without sacrificing the option to "bail out" for other winter activities if it doesn't click. Skiers can combine a day or evening of skiing with other activities and recreation. An Olympic-sized outdoor skating rink at the base of the slopes offers day and nighttime sessions Snowshoeing or ski touring throughout 100 miles of resort trails is also possible, snow cover permitting [bring your own equipment]. Otherwise take a great, easy walk along the Cascades Gorge Trail. My kids love to ride, a sport in which the Homestead excels. Even first-timers, however, can saddle up for a tour along the resort's extensive trail network. Carriage rides are also available. There's also a 22 caliber rifle range -- the kind I enjoyed as a kid at summer camp, and the full range of sport shooting. Hardy souls can play golf on the Old Course. When you tire of the outdoors, there is plenty to keep busy inside. My kids got a kick out of the low tech candlepin bowling alleys. The renovated, full size swimming pool fed by a natural hot spring is a perennial favorite with our family, not least because of its grand windowed surroundings. The brand new fitness center and spa, complete with a full line of message therapies, is where my wife escapes when I'm on the slopes with the kids.
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