Cost and opportunity directed us to fly from Washington to Seattle rather than Vancouver. We took a leisurely three hour to drive to Vancouver, leaving the interstate on occasion for quick hops over to Washington's scenic coast.
Canada's Blackcomb-Whistler Resort
For Washington metropolitan area skiers, a trip to British Columbia's famed Blackcomb-Whistler Resort is not for the faint at heart. But for those want to take advantage of the only foreign ski location where the US dollar is worth more every year, and who are prepared to brave the flight to the West Coast, this perennial favorite destination of North American skiers will not disappoint.
In a trip last spring, my family chose to make the resort's distance from good airport connections for Washington-based travellers work to our advantage. In the process our ski trip blossomed into get-acquainted stops in Vancouver and Seattle on either end of our ski vacation.
Cost and opportunity directed us to fly from Washington to Seattle rather than Vancouver. We took a leisurely three hour to drive to Vancouver, leaving the interstate on occasion for quick hops over to Washington's scenic coast.
We were advised to avoid the Douglas Border Crossing -- the main passenger vehicle border terminal on Interstate 5 -- in favor of the Pacific Highway crossing on Route 15. The extra time it took to reach the crossing was more than made up for when we breezed through Canadian customs, avoiding the long delays that we were told are a regular feature of the main crossing point.
Vancouver is Canada's West Coast boom town. Fueled by exports to the Pacific Rim and Asian investment, Vancouver has emerged as a major metropolitan area, without surrendering the advantages gained by its proximity to the sea and nearby mountains.
Vancouver boasts the usual assortment of city accommodations. The rooms at the venerable Hotel Vancouver, owned by Canadian Pacific, which operates noted hotels throughout Canada, are a throw back to when vacationing meant experiencing the good life. Don't be fooled by the convention center-like lobby. The old world rooms are expansive and well appointed --- important assets when travelling with children.
We had planned a full day of touring around the city, but as it turned out, we spent an entire day at Stanley Park and the Vancouver Public Aquarium and Zoo, located on a peninsula jus north of center city.
The park is a mecca for bike riders and strollers alike. Its plentiful flora and fauna, some of it almost tropical, flourish in the moderate seaside climate. A group of artists sit in a line, drawing portraits of passersby. A short walk into the park leads to a WPA-style great house, with a porch looking out over the gardens, and inexpensive lunches.
As charmed as we were by the park, we would have been on our way if the antics of the aquarium's killer and beluga whales had not captured the attention of our two children, Eve aged 8 and Morgan, aged 4. As we were travelling off season, the aquarium was almost empty, and my girls had front row seats at the two outdoors pools where extended presentations about the whales were offered. Even with a crowd the aquarium offers an opportunity to watch these fantastic mammals in a setting far more intimate than anywhere on the east coast. All but ignoring the other marine animals featured, my girls could not be moved from the whales, which on more than one occasion showed their appreciation by drenching them with water.
From Vancouver, the trip to Blackcomb-Whistler is a rambling, scenic ride of 90 minutes up the fog-shrouded coast. One can also take a train, whose route parallels the road. We stooped halfway to Blackcomb-Whistler at Shannon Falls. The Falls are the fifth highest in the world, and more than six times as high as their famed cousins on the Niagara.
Blackcomb-Whistler boasts two distinct mountains that are joined by well-planned lifts. Whistler, which opened in 1965, is the venerable scion, where Blackcomb, dating from 1980, is the younger upstart. Together they have consistently scored among the most popular ski destinations. When the sun shines it is not difficult to see why the combination of spectacular mountain scenery and extensive and varied terrain has won the hearts of so many. Even in late spring, when the fog and mist roll in, erasing the nearby peaks as well as some trail markers from view, skiers can usually find terrain where the sun still shines.
The ski schools at each mountain won kudos from my kids. I rate instructors not so much on their teaching expertise, as on their ability to keep the fun in skiing. A good day is when my kids are having too much fun skiing with their class to want to leave it to ski with me. During our ski week, I skied alone.
One outstanding feature of the ski program is the availability -- at no charge -- of ski helmets for all children in ski school. All the kids want to wear them -- giving a welcome boost to this good safety habit.
For families looking for a less exotic ski destination, New Hampshire's Bretton Woods may be the answer. Three hours drive from Boston, Bretton Woods is just north of the famed [and over-developed] Mt. Washington Valley.
Skiing at Bretton Woods offers families a ski experience out of the past. Small, intimate, and unpretentious, this small mountain is a favored option for families who want a New Hampshire vacation without the hustle and bustle of larger resort complexes.
At Bretton Woods, the owner greets you at the entrance, lunch can be packed in and stored under lunch tables in the dining room.
If your the overachieving sort, the pace at Bretton Woods may not be for you. The mountain however, offers reliable, intermediate terrain.
Bretton Woods may be one of the last remaining old fashioned "family" mountains, but it boasts the best children's ski school and outfitting facility I've seen. It's truly a one stop shop, when kids are signed up for ski school, fitted with needed equipment, and placed in the correct class -- all under one roof.
Don't expect kids to be pushed to advance as they are at some ski schools. At Bretton Woods, my younger daughter, after two winters on my back, was introduced to skiing under her own power. Ski school for these young beginners was geared to having fun on skis, rather than on learning to ski. And a very good beginning it was. When she was called to accept her medal for winning the end of school "race", she flashed us a big smile.