The Rockies Beckon -- Breckenridge, Keystone, Vail, and Powder
Don’t forget NH – Cannon and Loon
The opening of the winter ski season allows met to repeat a much-anticipated ritual. For the past few years I’ve been lucky enough to be on the short list of participants in the annual ski trip planned by my son Josh and his ski buddies.
Almost four decades separates the oldest (me) from the youngest of Josh’s quartet.
As they get older, however, there has been a convergence of sorts. Josh and his mates are not as excited as they once were to be in line when the lifts first open, unless, of course, it’s for first tracks.
Allowing time for the snow “to soften up” suits me just fine.
After a couple of hours skiing – and about twelve thousand vertical feet – everyone is usually ready for a serious lunch break before heading out until threeish, when all agree that its time to unbuckle our boots and make our way to the bar for some après ski food and drink.
Almost four decades separates the oldest (me) from the youngest of Josh’s quartet.
As they get older, however, there has been a convergence of sorts. Josh and his mates are not as excited as they once were to be in line when the lifts first open, unless, of course, it’s for first tracks.
Allowing time for the snow “to soften up” suits me just fine.
After a couple of hours skiing – and about twelve thousand vertical feet – everyone is usually ready for a serious lunch break before heading out until threeish, when all agree that its time to unbuckle our boots and make our way to the bar for some après ski food and drink.
I can manage this pace – 15,000 to 20,000 vertical is counted a good day -- even early in the season when no lift lines enable us to quickly accumulate lots of vertical. Indeed, I’ve skied more this just-finished season – close to 20 days -- than I have in decades. And if anything, I’m in far better condition for it, still able to acquit myself without embarrassment and keep myself within sight of the trail breakers.
This year the most difficult challenge I encountered was not keeping up, but keeping up with the right guys. So many skiers and boarders wear the same uniform, it was not unusual for me to follow some stranger wearing regulation black than the guys in my crew. From afar they all look the same to me!
This year’s season commenced early with a few days of pre-Xmas skiing at Breckenridge.
Planning a trip this early in the snow season is always chancy. This year was no exception.
This year the most difficult challenge I encountered was not keeping up, but keeping up with the right guys. So many skiers and boarders wear the same uniform, it was not unusual for me to follow some stranger wearing regulation black than the guys in my crew. From afar they all look the same to me!
This year’s season commenced early with a few days of pre-Xmas skiing at Breckenridge.
Planning a trip this early in the snow season is always chancy. This year was no exception.
The snow was okay – not great and in relatively short supply. The bowls accessible from the Imperial chair, topping out at 13000 feet, were not open, so we had to content ourselves with mid-mountain terrain that during a snow-packed February visit we considered less interesting.
For the intermediate skiers in our crew – the wives of a couple of the guys -- there were no complaints --- plenty of groomers and not a mogul to be seen.
What we lacked in fresh snow was (almost) compensated for by perpetual, all but cloudless sunshine. In my world, if you can’t enjoy fresh powder you might as well soak up the rays.
This season as a whole was short on the powdery stuff – even during my late January days at Powder, which usually does not disappoint in this regard.
But no matter where we skied this year, the sunshine was spectacular – during pre-Xmas and February visits to Breckenridge, including a couple of days at Keystone and Vail, and a mid-winter visit to Powder, followed by end of season days at New Hampshire’s Cannon and Loon mountains.
For the intermediate skiers in our crew – the wives of a couple of the guys -- there were no complaints --- plenty of groomers and not a mogul to be seen.
What we lacked in fresh snow was (almost) compensated for by perpetual, all but cloudless sunshine. In my world, if you can’t enjoy fresh powder you might as well soak up the rays.
This season as a whole was short on the powdery stuff – even during my late January days at Powder, which usually does not disappoint in this regard.
But no matter where we skied this year, the sunshine was spectacular – during pre-Xmas and February visits to Breckenridge, including a couple of days at Keystone and Vail, and a mid-winter visit to Powder, followed by end of season days at New Hampshire’s Cannon and Loon mountains.
" Keystone...was a welcome surprise. Glorious sun for a start and plenty of open, intermediate level terrain"
Powder Mountain rarely disappoints. It has long been one of my favorite ski destinations. There are many reasons not to ski there --a decided strategy by new owners to entice the uber wealthy at the expense of the rest of us, lousy après ski infrastructure, and a treacherous approach road to the slopes. Accommodations are short in supply and the lift tickets are expensive and exclusive. No EpicPass buddy tickets here.
But the snow is most often plentiful and light, the terrain challenging but not life-threatening, and the lift lines nonexistent. And this year, even though skiing in the trees was not welcoming, our team – me, my cousin and a friend – made quick and frequent runs of the long groomers off the Hidden Lake chair and the meadows off the newly installed and faster Paradise Express.
A long February week at Breckenridge offered an EpicPass trifecta – not only skiing Breck but also sampling Keystone and Vail. Unlike our December visit, the Imperial Peak at Breck was open --- cloudless sun and more than enough snow to favor numerous long runs in the bowls above tree line serviced by chairlift and T-bar.
But the snow is most often plentiful and light, the terrain challenging but not life-threatening, and the lift lines nonexistent. And this year, even though skiing in the trees was not welcoming, our team – me, my cousin and a friend – made quick and frequent runs of the long groomers off the Hidden Lake chair and the meadows off the newly installed and faster Paradise Express.
A long February week at Breckenridge offered an EpicPass trifecta – not only skiing Breck but also sampling Keystone and Vail. Unlike our December visit, the Imperial Peak at Breck was open --- cloudless sun and more than enough snow to favor numerous long runs in the bowls above tree line serviced by chairlift and T-bar.
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Breck’s Beaver Creek lift was a two minute shuttle drive from our condo. But Keystone and Vail were close enough – in both cases less than on an hour’s drive, to merit a visit.
Vail was a disappointment. Après ski at The Sebastian was a pleasure befitting Vail’s high-end reputation, but the mountain, due to the scarcity of new snow, reminded me why I haven’t skied there in years. Too much tiring traversing, and if the “legendary back bowls” are starved of new snow – as was the case during our visit -- not much of a reason to ski there.
Keystone on the other hand was a welcome surprise. Glorious sun for a start and plenty of open, intermediate level terrain.
A day at New Hampshire’s Cannon Mountain usually features masks to guard against a bone-chilling wind whipsawing its way from the nearby Presidential range and funneling through the storied Franconia Notch; plenty of ice, and less than pristine, winding trails cut in a fashion popular about a century ago.
Still, for those reared on its idiosyncrasies, and the World Cup circuit has featured not a few who call Cannon home, Cannon is an acquired taste. That’s why a March visit was such a surprising and welcome treat. Nothing in the way of new snow, but no wind, plenty of sun and fast, uncrowded terrain from the summit.
That was Thursday. Friday was more in keeping with long experience – winds so treacherous only one lift near the bottom was open. We decided to cut our loses and head south on Route 93 to Loon Mountain – and a bit of drizzle that quickly dissipated -- and miracle of miracles, no wind or crowds….
There are worse ways to end the season.
Vail was a disappointment. Après ski at The Sebastian was a pleasure befitting Vail’s high-end reputation, but the mountain, due to the scarcity of new snow, reminded me why I haven’t skied there in years. Too much tiring traversing, and if the “legendary back bowls” are starved of new snow – as was the case during our visit -- not much of a reason to ski there.
Keystone on the other hand was a welcome surprise. Glorious sun for a start and plenty of open, intermediate level terrain.
A day at New Hampshire’s Cannon Mountain usually features masks to guard against a bone-chilling wind whipsawing its way from the nearby Presidential range and funneling through the storied Franconia Notch; plenty of ice, and less than pristine, winding trails cut in a fashion popular about a century ago.
Still, for those reared on its idiosyncrasies, and the World Cup circuit has featured not a few who call Cannon home, Cannon is an acquired taste. That’s why a March visit was such a surprising and welcome treat. Nothing in the way of new snow, but no wind, plenty of sun and fast, uncrowded terrain from the summit.
That was Thursday. Friday was more in keeping with long experience – winds so treacherous only one lift near the bottom was open. We decided to cut our loses and head south on Route 93 to Loon Mountain – and a bit of drizzle that quickly dissipated -- and miracle of miracles, no wind or crowds….
There are worse ways to end the season.
Before you go:
Check out mountain resort sites below for most updated pricing and accomodation options:
Check out mountain resort sites below for most updated pricing and accomodation options:
Powder MountainKeystone |
VailBreckenridge |