Living [Not Too] Dangerously at Jackson Hole
January 2024
I decided to begin this year’s ski season by living dangerously. I was invited by my twenty-something son Josh and a few of his friends to join an early January outing. The destination –
Jackson Hole – the jewel of the Tetons, with terrain that is famous for many things, but not, I feared, the ski preferences of a guy approaching 70.
I had skied Jackson once before, in 1991, as a father with two kids under five. I have a vivid recollection of sitting on a chairlift – the rediscovered Sublette Quad -- far too high above the ground for comfort, looking down upon a steep and heavily bumped out slope.
A lifetime later, I wondered if I was up to it.
The short answer is … hell yes!
To be sure, my much-younger ski buddies fared better than me with the altitude, but after a couple of days I had more or less adjusted – still huffing and puffing and stopping more frequently than my younger cohort, but not uncomfortably -- or embarrassingly -- so.
Of greater concern to all of us was the flat light and lack of visibility, especially on our first day out. These conditions more than anything else are for me the scariest and most accident-prone time of skiing, no matter the terrain. To fight the vertigo, the guys headed for the trees off the Apres-Vous, Casper and Teton lifts. For the most part I held back, sticking to the lift lines and staying close to but out of the tight trees. I preferred at least one day on less challenging terrain while I got my ski legs, and as a result, I often made it to the bottom of whatever chair we were skiing before the they did.
Jackson Hole – the jewel of the Tetons, with terrain that is famous for many things, but not, I feared, the ski preferences of a guy approaching 70.
I had skied Jackson once before, in 1991, as a father with two kids under five. I have a vivid recollection of sitting on a chairlift – the rediscovered Sublette Quad -- far too high above the ground for comfort, looking down upon a steep and heavily bumped out slope.
A lifetime later, I wondered if I was up to it.
The short answer is … hell yes!
To be sure, my much-younger ski buddies fared better than me with the altitude, but after a couple of days I had more or less adjusted – still huffing and puffing and stopping more frequently than my younger cohort, but not uncomfortably -- or embarrassingly -- so.
Of greater concern to all of us was the flat light and lack of visibility, especially on our first day out. These conditions more than anything else are for me the scariest and most accident-prone time of skiing, no matter the terrain. To fight the vertigo, the guys headed for the trees off the Apres-Vous, Casper and Teton lifts. For the most part I held back, sticking to the lift lines and staying close to but out of the tight trees. I preferred at least one day on less challenging terrain while I got my ski legs, and as a result, I often made it to the bottom of whatever chair we were skiing before the they did.
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True to form, day two was much improved, both in terms of visibility and my ability to keep up on runs of their choice.
I’m don’t think I’d get an argument when I say that after six plus decades of piste and off piste adventures on two continents, patrolling and teaching, I’m a better skier than my son Josh and his buddies. But they are faster, and with greater endurance than I. And they are more adventurous in their search for powder and more tolerant of less than optimal ski and weather conditions. No matter. When the skiing is good, even if the sun fails to shine and the powder becomes tracked and a bit crusty, we can all have fun together. And that we did. Ski logistics were much easier because we chose to stay at Hilton’s Hampton Inn on the outskirts of town, and the big advantage of being the last stop on the ski bus for the twenty- minute ride to the mountain. Unlike other destinations, there is really no need for a car at Jackson. There’s no time savings in driving to the mountain base. Indeed the bus system is far superior and cheaper, and indeed quicker, with real time updates and frequent and timely schedules. |
When we needed a car --- for a visit to the Astoria hot springs – Hertz was only a short walk and an affordable day rate of $50 – away.
During our early January visit, Jackson’s snow pack was far less than in previous years. That, plus the fact that we were skiing early in the season, limited our ski options on the mountain. With the welcome exception of the Rendezvous Bowl, for example, there was no skiing on that side of the mountain. No matter. There were no lift lines (the tram excepted) and no impediments to racking up multiple thousands of challenging and enjoyable vertical – tabulated by Jackson’s great app -- daily.
I must admit that the boys are mellowing. No longer do they insist on arriving at the mountain at first light or skiing straight until late in the day. I, of course, welcomed this more civilized approach and was very happy when they voted to spend a couple of hours late in the day – drinking and eating at the Mangy Moose or the Four Seasons.
On day three, we decided to check out the Astoria Hot Springs. an easy 30 minute drive from town.
The site, situated along the banks of the Snake River, is run by a nonprofit, so the facilities are spartan. Entry is booked in two hour increments.
These restrictions are of little consequence, as the hot springs do not disappoint. There are six different soaking pools filled with natural thermal waters. The pools are not open in the evenings and families and kids are welcome. On a day when skiing promised to be less than ideal, the hot springs were a much welcome, easy, and appreciated visual and therapeutic outing.
On Day four – our last day – the skies cleared and we headed up the tram to Rendezvous Bowl. The wind at the 10,450 foot peak reminded me of the unforgiving, relentless summit at New Hampshire’s Cannon Mountain tram.
But this was Jackson Hole! And instead of black ice we had comfortable temperatures, good visibility, and plenty of light snow.
All in all, a very fitting end to our early season ski vacation.
I would like to believe that my presence was at worst tolerable and at best added value for Josh and his friends. Far more than they, I viewed each successful day on the mountain as an achievement – because I was able to keep up without any special treatment or consideration … and not kill myself in the process.
A couple of weeks later I found myself at Powder Mountain skiing with my cousin and a friend. Three old guys on the mountain. Fun and worthwhile to be sure … but not the same.
During our early January visit, Jackson’s snow pack was far less than in previous years. That, plus the fact that we were skiing early in the season, limited our ski options on the mountain. With the welcome exception of the Rendezvous Bowl, for example, there was no skiing on that side of the mountain. No matter. There were no lift lines (the tram excepted) and no impediments to racking up multiple thousands of challenging and enjoyable vertical – tabulated by Jackson’s great app -- daily.
I must admit that the boys are mellowing. No longer do they insist on arriving at the mountain at first light or skiing straight until late in the day. I, of course, welcomed this more civilized approach and was very happy when they voted to spend a couple of hours late in the day – drinking and eating at the Mangy Moose or the Four Seasons.
On day three, we decided to check out the Astoria Hot Springs. an easy 30 minute drive from town.
The site, situated along the banks of the Snake River, is run by a nonprofit, so the facilities are spartan. Entry is booked in two hour increments.
These restrictions are of little consequence, as the hot springs do not disappoint. There are six different soaking pools filled with natural thermal waters. The pools are not open in the evenings and families and kids are welcome. On a day when skiing promised to be less than ideal, the hot springs were a much welcome, easy, and appreciated visual and therapeutic outing.
On Day four – our last day – the skies cleared and we headed up the tram to Rendezvous Bowl. The wind at the 10,450 foot peak reminded me of the unforgiving, relentless summit at New Hampshire’s Cannon Mountain tram.
But this was Jackson Hole! And instead of black ice we had comfortable temperatures, good visibility, and plenty of light snow.
All in all, a very fitting end to our early season ski vacation.
I would like to believe that my presence was at worst tolerable and at best added value for Josh and his friends. Far more than they, I viewed each successful day on the mountain as an achievement – because I was able to keep up without any special treatment or consideration … and not kill myself in the process.
A couple of weeks later I found myself at Powder Mountain skiing with my cousin and a friend. Three old guys on the mountain. Fun and worthwhile to be sure … but not the same.
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