The rain had turned into a particularly slippery and treacherous form of snow as I raced down the George Washington Parkway towards National Airport. My alarm had failed to sound, and I had less than an hour to travel from my bed in Gaithersburg to National and a plane that would take me to Reno, Nevada for a week of glorious spring skiing and other forms of adult entertainment.
I knew that all was lost when five minutes before my 7am departure I was still winding my way through National on the satellite shuttle bus.
On this trip I was traveling alone and unencumbered, so my day-long trip to Reno, with stops at most of the airports between Washington and the Rockies, was far less than catastrophic. I took comfort in the expectation that when I finally did arrive in Reno, my old ski buddy Fran, an ophthalmologist from Boston whom I hadn't skied with since a trip to Vail more than two decades ago, would be waiting for me.
I knew that all was lost when five minutes before my 7am departure I was still winding my way through National on the satellite shuttle bus.
On this trip I was traveling alone and unencumbered, so my day-long trip to Reno, with stops at most of the airports between Washington and the Rockies, was far less than catastrophic. I took comfort in the expectation that when I finally did arrive in Reno, my old ski buddy Fran, an ophthalmologist from Boston whom I hadn't skied with since a trip to Vail more than two decades ago, would be waiting for me.
We had selected the Reno-Lake Tahoe area for a couple of reasons. First and foremost, the skiing. Although we're in our forties, Fran and I still like to think of ourselves as ready for skiing's "prime time." We decided to spend a few days at Heavenly, overlooking Lake Tahoe before driving north around the Lake to California's Squaw Valley. Both areas offer plenty of challenging skiing Second, we were not interested in spending our off-mountain time strolling the streets of a quaint ski town. South Lake Tahoe, although its sits in the shadow of the High Sierra's 10,100 ft. Heavenly, with its strip of high-rise casinos backed by aging low rise shops and lake-side developments harking back to the sixties, is a far cry from Crested Butte or Park City.
And that's the way we wanted it. We stayed at Harvey's Resort Hotel/Casino, which offered us hassle-free modern accommodations, easy access to the slopes at nearby Heavenly, and a decidedly non-alpine apres ski environment highlighted by blackjack and cabaret theater.
While I did some gambling I came to Tahoe to ski... and the god's did not disappoint. Lots of sun and, more importantly for aging powder hounds, plenty of new snow as well. At Heavenly, we usually skipped the tram at the main California base lodge, which is often more crowded than the smaller facilities on the Nevada side at Stagecoach and Boulder. The quad chair "Dipper Express " brought us up quickly to the wide open Milky Way Bowl, itself merely a warm up for the drop dead steepness of the shoots cascading down Motts Canyon. Even with new snow, we bailed out of Motts after a few runs and headed over to the Sky Express quad chair. There are plenty of intermediate runs off this chair, offering nice wide cruising with a terrific view of the lake. Fran and I however headed off the Skyline trail and into glades of mountain scrub punctured by rocky outcroppings. Only a couple of snowboarders had come this way -- there was no trail to follow, just the fall line, around jutting rocks and dwarf pine. Fran and I tried to stay together, but the obstacles would at times force us to take divergent routes. In terrain like this, it is important to stay within hailing distance, so between bursts of exhilarating skiing, we made sure to call out for each other. Well I did anyway.
And that's the way we wanted it. We stayed at Harvey's Resort Hotel/Casino, which offered us hassle-free modern accommodations, easy access to the slopes at nearby Heavenly, and a decidedly non-alpine apres ski environment highlighted by blackjack and cabaret theater.
While I did some gambling I came to Tahoe to ski... and the god's did not disappoint. Lots of sun and, more importantly for aging powder hounds, plenty of new snow as well. At Heavenly, we usually skipped the tram at the main California base lodge, which is often more crowded than the smaller facilities on the Nevada side at Stagecoach and Boulder. The quad chair "Dipper Express " brought us up quickly to the wide open Milky Way Bowl, itself merely a warm up for the drop dead steepness of the shoots cascading down Motts Canyon. Even with new snow, we bailed out of Motts after a few runs and headed over to the Sky Express quad chair. There are plenty of intermediate runs off this chair, offering nice wide cruising with a terrific view of the lake. Fran and I however headed off the Skyline trail and into glades of mountain scrub punctured by rocky outcroppings. Only a couple of snowboarders had come this way -- there was no trail to follow, just the fall line, around jutting rocks and dwarf pine. Fran and I tried to stay together, but the obstacles would at times force us to take divergent routes. In terrain like this, it is important to stay within hailing distance, so between bursts of exhilarating skiing, we made sure to call out for each other. Well I did anyway.
"Lots of sun and, more importantly for aging powder hounds, plenty of new snow"
Squaw Valley, an hour long drive from South Lake Tahoe, and only 42 miles from Reno, offers a marked contrast from the steely pleasures available there. Despite its international reputation among skiers, Squaw is a comparatively undeveloped resort complex, reflecting its origins as a weekend getaway for Californians from Sacramento [96 miles away] and San Francisco [196 miles].
The Resort at Squaw Creek is one fine example of the changes coming to the Valley. Skiers can ride a nearby chairlift to the main mountain peaks and return at the end of a long day to the outdoor bar overlooking the pool and hot tubs available to Resort guests. Be warned however, the bar for some inexplicable reason, closes shortly after the lifts close, and just when Fran and I were ready to sit and catch the day's last rays of sunshine.
We certainly deserved a rest, after a day skiing the famed KT-22, served by a new quad chair. We were happy to have skied this punishing run, but Fran and I left it gladly for some cruising off the Silverado and Shirley Lake Express chairs.
Squaw's 4000 acres offer skiers a wide open expanse of slopes, rather than discreet trails for beginner through expert. For newcomers and intermediates the open terrain offers an inviting and confidence-building opportunity to experience the mountain. The beginner slopes, for example, are clustered at the top of the cable car and gondola lifts 2,000 feet above the area's 6,200 foot base elevation.
The Resort at Squaw Creek is one fine example of the changes coming to the Valley. Skiers can ride a nearby chairlift to the main mountain peaks and return at the end of a long day to the outdoor bar overlooking the pool and hot tubs available to Resort guests. Be warned however, the bar for some inexplicable reason, closes shortly after the lifts close, and just when Fran and I were ready to sit and catch the day's last rays of sunshine.
We certainly deserved a rest, after a day skiing the famed KT-22, served by a new quad chair. We were happy to have skied this punishing run, but Fran and I left it gladly for some cruising off the Silverado and Shirley Lake Express chairs.
Squaw's 4000 acres offer skiers a wide open expanse of slopes, rather than discreet trails for beginner through expert. For newcomers and intermediates the open terrain offers an inviting and confidence-building opportunity to experience the mountain. The beginner slopes, for example, are clustered at the top of the cable car and gondola lifts 2,000 feet above the area's 6,200 foot base elevation.
After a hard day skiing there is nothing more relaxing than an evening spent looking up at the stars from the warmth of a natural hot spring.
Walley's Hot Springs Resort is 12 miles east of South Lake Tahoe at the foot of the Kingsbury Grade. The springs overlook the broad expanse of the Carson Valley -- a working agricultural community -- and the Sierra Nevada mountains.
Walley's was established 130 years ago alongside the Pony Express Route and the Emigrant Trail. During its lifetime its mineral baths have welcomed the likes of Mark Twain and Clark Gable.
The evening we spent there however, Walley's was practically deserted. After paying our $12 admission fee we stepped out into the star-lit night and the complex of 6 hot pools of varying temperatures placed around a large swimming pool. There was nothing to do but turn our gaze skyward and listen to the chilled stillness of the mountain night.
Suitably refreshed, Fran and I headed down the road to the saloon -- yes a real saloon - The Oldest Bar and Saloon in Genoa -- the oldest bar in Nevada with enough cobwebs to prove it. We sampled some of the local beer, and waited for a some bad guys to come through the swinging doors. They never showed, but we didn't leave disappointed.
Walley's Hot Springs Resort is 12 miles east of South Lake Tahoe at the foot of the Kingsbury Grade. The springs overlook the broad expanse of the Carson Valley -- a working agricultural community -- and the Sierra Nevada mountains.
Walley's was established 130 years ago alongside the Pony Express Route and the Emigrant Trail. During its lifetime its mineral baths have welcomed the likes of Mark Twain and Clark Gable.
The evening we spent there however, Walley's was practically deserted. After paying our $12 admission fee we stepped out into the star-lit night and the complex of 6 hot pools of varying temperatures placed around a large swimming pool. There was nothing to do but turn our gaze skyward and listen to the chilled stillness of the mountain night.
Suitably refreshed, Fran and I headed down the road to the saloon -- yes a real saloon - The Oldest Bar and Saloon in Genoa -- the oldest bar in Nevada with enough cobwebs to prove it. We sampled some of the local beer, and waited for a some bad guys to come through the swinging doors. They never showed, but we didn't leave disappointed.
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Getting There
Squaw Valley The closest airport to Squaw Valley. Alpine Meadows is Reno-Tahoe International (RNO), just an hours drive or shuttle ride away. You can also fly into Sacramento (2 hour drive) or San Fransisco (3 hour drive). Heavenly In 2015, JetBlue Airways began flying direct from New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport, as well as JFK to Reno-Tahoe International Airport. Thomas Cook Airlines ran the first ever direct flight from Reno-Tahoe International Airport to London, England. You can easily get to either mountain by plane, car, train or shuttle. |