Powder Mountain Does Not Disappoint
For my first ski outing of the season, I flew out to Salt Lake – a thankfully direct and untroubled flight from Washington DC.
When selecting ski destinations, it makes good sense to consider weather-related factors that can turn a simple flight to or from Denver, for example, into a frustrating, time-consuming adventure. In this important regard, Salt Lake City, as usual, did not disappoint. No drama, and a flight that was entirely forgettable.
My cousin, just arrived from Boston, was waiting for me at the coffee shop near the security exit. I had booked a car from Turo – a 2017 all-wheel drive Audi A 4, with 70k miles that was able to accommodate three of us and our skis – for the drive up to
Powder Mountain, a good 60 minutes on well-tended roads from the airport.
When selecting ski destinations, it makes good sense to consider weather-related factors that can turn a simple flight to or from Denver, for example, into a frustrating, time-consuming adventure. In this important regard, Salt Lake City, as usual, did not disappoint. No drama, and a flight that was entirely forgettable.
My cousin, just arrived from Boston, was waiting for me at the coffee shop near the security exit. I had booked a car from Turo – a 2017 all-wheel drive Audi A 4, with 70k miles that was able to accommodate three of us and our skis – for the drive up to
Powder Mountain, a good 60 minutes on well-tended roads from the airport.
We found the car – as advertised and unlocked in the Economy Lot -- with no trouble. We had an hour or so to kill before the last of our trio – a serious skier with lots of vertical under his belt -- was due to land, so we made for the nearby Lucky grocery store to buy enough provisions for our five ski days on the mountain.
There is a grocery in nearby Eden, but Powder is still short of the amenities – bars, restaurants, and stores of any kind – that most skiers have come to expect at a mountain destination.
I chose Powder precisely because I see these shortcomings as strengths. Fewer shops and bars translate into fewer skiers on the mountain. An old and still-creaky mountain infrastructure means a painfully long ride on the Paradise chair, but it keeps the lift lines short -- and powder untracked for days after a snowfall.
There is a grocery in nearby Eden, but Powder is still short of the amenities – bars, restaurants, and stores of any kind – that most skiers have come to expect at a mountain destination.
I chose Powder precisely because I see these shortcomings as strengths. Fewer shops and bars translate into fewer skiers on the mountain. An old and still-creaky mountain infrastructure means a painfully long ride on the Paradise chair, but it keeps the lift lines short -- and powder untracked for days after a snowfall.
"The powder is so inviting and the terrain so accommodating"
We had booked a condo at the Moose Hollow development just off the main road to the mountain – a 3-bedroom that offered all the amenities needed for an extended stay.
Most days we drove ourselves to the topmost parking area at the Hidden Lake lodge. Never a problem parking. On the days that winter weather made the uphill drive interesting we caught the mountain bus just outside the condo for the 20 minute ride to the Timberline Lodge, which is lower than Hidden Lake and sports a ski shop, ticket office, and what (barely) passes for a lodge.
If you haven’t guessed by now, Powder, even after years of development, remains a no-frills skiers mountain. I didn’t see a ski instructor or ski school class anywhere throughout my visit. Although I am sure that they exist, there are other places – nearby Nordic Valley and Snowbasin – that offer a more traditional infrastructure for ski lessons and aspiring intermediates.
Most days we drove ourselves to the topmost parking area at the Hidden Lake lodge. Never a problem parking. On the days that winter weather made the uphill drive interesting we caught the mountain bus just outside the condo for the 20 minute ride to the Timberline Lodge, which is lower than Hidden Lake and sports a ski shop, ticket office, and what (barely) passes for a lodge.
If you haven’t guessed by now, Powder, even after years of development, remains a no-frills skiers mountain. I didn’t see a ski instructor or ski school class anywhere throughout my visit. Although I am sure that they exist, there are other places – nearby Nordic Valley and Snowbasin – that offer a more traditional infrastructure for ski lessons and aspiring intermediates.
Powder is not an especially difficult or even challenging mountain for good skiers. The intermediate slopes are groomed, and the snowcats have zero tolerance for bumps and moguls. The aspen glades are beautiful and a joy to ski, but they are not especially steep or tight. So you may not be overly challenged by the terrain, but who cares when the powder is so inviting and the terrain so accommodating.
We skied almost everywhere on the mountain during our 4 days on the slopes. There are maps in all the usual places and signs at the trailheads, but Powder is best experienced when you just follow the snow. Powder runs inevitably dump into long traverses at the bottom of mountain ridges. It may seem intimidating to simply head down an untracked glade with no visible guide to a chairlift, but it works. You’d have to try … or ski alone … to risk getting into trouble.
We found ourselves drawn to two particular locales – the first was the varied terrain under and around the Hidden Lake Express. This is a high-speed quad with plenty of skiing – in powder or on groomers -- on and around the lift line. There is a small hut at the top for coffee and chili.
We skied almost everywhere on the mountain during our 4 days on the slopes. There are maps in all the usual places and signs at the trailheads, but Powder is best experienced when you just follow the snow. Powder runs inevitably dump into long traverses at the bottom of mountain ridges. It may seem intimidating to simply head down an untracked glade with no visible guide to a chairlift, but it works. You’d have to try … or ski alone … to risk getting into trouble.
We found ourselves drawn to two particular locales – the first was the varied terrain under and around the Hidden Lake Express. This is a high-speed quad with plenty of skiing – in powder or on groomers -- on and around the lift line. There is a small hut at the top for coffee and chili.
From the top of Hidden Lake we headed to the glades to the left of the Sunrise Pomalift and further over into the Cobabe Canyon. The only downside (no pun intended) of this option is the long, slow ride up the Paradise double chairlift.
We skied one day at nearby Snowbasin – a far more upscale destination – with lots more money invested in infrastructure and amenities. And it showed. The lodges were expansive and beautiful and the firepits near the gondola were comfortable and relaxing.
But I must say, I’ve skied at Snowbasin at least twice and every time the fog and clouds at the top have made for a sometimes treacherous and vertigo-induced run to the bottom. I’m sure that -- on a clear day – the skiing is glorious, and the management of the many parking lots and (often long) lift lines is efficient – but I don’t think that I’ll be visiting Snowbasin again any time soon.
Such is certainly not the case with Powder. It’s one of my favorite destinations on two continents. I’ll be back as soon and as often as I find the opportunity.
We skied one day at nearby Snowbasin – a far more upscale destination – with lots more money invested in infrastructure and amenities. And it showed. The lodges were expansive and beautiful and the firepits near the gondola were comfortable and relaxing.
But I must say, I’ve skied at Snowbasin at least twice and every time the fog and clouds at the top have made for a sometimes treacherous and vertigo-induced run to the bottom. I’m sure that -- on a clear day – the skiing is glorious, and the management of the many parking lots and (often long) lift lines is efficient – but I don’t think that I’ll be visiting Snowbasin again any time soon.
Such is certainly not the case with Powder. It’s one of my favorite destinations on two continents. I’ll be back as soon and as often as I find the opportunity.
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Getting There
Powder Mountain Website: find everything you need here about accommodation, the mountain, ski school and more. By Air: Salt Lake City International Airport. From there, you can rent a car or book an airport shuttle through your accommodation. |